This tulip crochet dress is perfect for summer! With sizes from 12 months to size 8 this dress can be made for most young girls. Plus there are instructions to use this pattern to make a crop top and summer top!
Below you will find the complete pattern and instructional photos for this tulip crochet dress. You will also find all the materials, stitches, gauge, and sizing information. If you would like all of this in a nicely formatted printable format, you can purchase the Ad-Free Large Print PDF Pattern.
The Tulip Crochet Dress Beginnings
Last year, together, we designed the Puff Stitch Toddler dress. Lately, I have been getting a lot of requests for a similar dress, but this time with bigger sizes.
So here is the Tulip Crochet Dress. She is the same shape and length as the Puff Stitch Dress but with a simpler design, so she will be easier to make and with 6 different sizes from 12 months to size 8.
To top it off, I decided to add some additional instructions for how to use this pattern to make a crop top and standard summer top. Now you can dress your little girls up all summer long.
Make sure to check out the Casual Cotton Headband, it uses the same yarn and would look stunning with this dress.
Keeping this Tulip Crochet Dress Pattern Simple
The goal when creating this dress was to keep it relatively simple. To create this dress you will need to know how to chain and double crochet. To create the rows of tulips, you will also need to make cluster stitches and double crochet two stitches together.
Both of these are easy stitches to learn. I have provided a link to a video tutorial of the cluster stitch and written instructions for both stitches. A video tutorial for this pattern will be coming soon.
If the tulips are too difficult you can also work simple double crochet rows and still complete the dress.
The Tulip Crop Top and Simple Summer Top
This pattern is really three patterns in one. You can work just the bodice and waistband rows, then fasten off and you will have a cute little crop top. Extra crochet instructions are provided for lengthing the crop top into a regular summer top as well.
I just love when a pattern can be versatile.
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The Premium Ad-Free PDF Pattern
Below you will find the free pattern with all the instructional photos and videos needed to complete the pattern, but I am also aware that several of us like to crochet on the couch, in the car, or in bed with a printout of the pattern. This is why I also offer a nicely formatted ad-free large font PDF version of the pattern. You can print the pattern and take it on the go with you or tuck it into your project bag or basket.
I moved all the photos to the end of the PDF so you can reference them as you needed them and print just the pattern without using up as much ink. The Premium PDF version of the pattern can be purchased on Etsy of Ravelry.
More Patterns you may Love
Don’t forget to check out all the free patterns at Winding Road Crochet. You may just find a new favorite project. Here are some great patterns you will love.
Tulip Crochet Dress
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Materials Needed
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5.36-12.65 oz or 325-767 yds of Bernat Softee Baby Cotton (Size 3 Yarn)
Colors Used are Pale Periwinkle, Jade Frost, and Petal
Size H 5mm Crochet Hook
Yarn Needle
Scissors
3-4 1/2inch Buttons
**Shop my Favorite Tools Here**
Stitches and Abbreviations
CH – Chain
DC – Double Crochet
CL – Cluster Stitch
DC2TOG – Double Crochet Two Stitches Together
YO – Yarn Over
ST(s) – Stitch(es)
SLST – Slip Stitch
Gauge and Size
Gauge: 11 DC X 6 Rows = 3 inches
Helpful Video Tutorials
Here are some video tutorials that will help you with making this dress.
How to Change Colors
Cluster Stitch Video Tutorial (By Naztazia)
Special Stitches
Cluster Stitch – CL – *YO, insert hook into next ST and pull up a loop, YO, pull the first loop through the second and third loop on the hook* repeat from *to* a total of 3 times. YO, pull the first loop through all loops on the hook. (Video Tutorial)
Double Crochet 2 Stitches Together – DC2TOG – *YO, insert hook into next ST and pull up a loop, YO, pull the first loop through the second and third loop on the hook* repeat from *to* a total of 2 times. YO, pull the first loop through all loops on the hook.
The DC2TOG will be worked into two chain spaces to create the bottom of your tulips.
Tulip Crochet Dress Pattern
Notes:
-Written in US terms.
-The pattern is written in 3 parts and the rows count starts over in each part.
– I do not count my CH2, turning chain, as a stitch.
– Size and yarn requirements are determined using the gauge listed on the first page. Please check your gauge before starting this project.
-Sizes are written in parenthesis like so: 12m (18m, 2, 4, 6, 8). Stitch count is written at the end of the row like so: (12m, 18m, 2, 4, 6, 8)
– Notes are provided at the end to turn this dress into a top or crop top.
Part 1: Tulip Crochet Dress Bodice
CH 17(17, 19, 19 , 21, 23) with Purple (Pale Periwinkle)
Row 1: DC in the 3rd CH from the hook. DC in the next 14(14, 16, 16, 18, 20) STs. (15, 15, 17, 17, 19, 21)
Row 2: CH2, Turn, Work 2 DC into the 1st ST, Work a DC in each ST until you reach the last ST. Work 2 DC into the last ST.
Repeat Row 2 working an increase in the first and last stitch of every row.
Size 12 months – Repeat Row 2 until you have a total of 8 rows and 29 STs at the end of Row 8.
Size 18 months – Repeat Row 2 until you have a total of 9 rows and 31 STs at the end of Row 9.
Size 2 – Repeat Row 2 until you have a total of 10 rows and 35 STs at the end of Row 10.
Size 4 – Repeat Row 2 until you have a total of 13 rows and 41 STs at the end of Row 13.
Size 6 – Repeat Row 2 until you have a total of 15 rows and 47 STs at the end of Row 15.
Size 8 – Repeat Row 2 until you have a total of 19 rows and 57 STs at the end of Row 19.
Fasten off at the end of your last bodice row. Turn your work.
Part 2: Tulip Crochet Dress Waistband
In Row one we will be creating the entire waistband by first chaining, then crocheting onto our bodice piece, then chaining at the end of the row. The numbers on row one may look a little odd but they are correct. The larger sizes have the bodice wrap around the body further.
Row 1: CH22 (21, 22, 19, 19, 14) Work 2 DC into the last ST of the last Bodice Row, DC into next 27 (29, 33, 39, 45, 55) STs, Work 2 DC into last ST. CH 24 (23, 24 ,21, 21, 16).
Row 2: Turn, DC into 3rd CH from the hook. DC into next 21(20, 21, 18, 18, 13) CH, DC into next 31 (33, 37, 43, 49, 59) STs, DC into next 22(21, 22, 19, 19, 14) CH.
Change Color to Pink (Petal)
Row3: CH2, Turn, DC into 1st ST, CH1, Skip a ST, *CL into next ST, CH1, Skip a ST.* repeat from *to* a total of 36(36, 39, 39, 42, 42) times. DC into last ST.
Change Color to Green (Jade Frost)
Row 4: CH2, Turn, DC into 1st ST, *Working into the next 2 CH1 spaces, DC2TOG, CH1 Skip a ST* repeat from *to* a total of 36(36, 39, 39, 42, 42) times. DC into last ST. (74, 74, 80, 80, 86, 86)
Change to Purple (Pale Periwinkle)
Row 5: CH2, turn, DC into first ST, DC into CH1 Space, Skip a ST, *Work 2 DC into CH1 Space, Skip a ST* repeat from *to* a total of 35(35, 38, 38, 41, 41) times. DC into last CH1 Space, DC into last ST. SLST to the 3rd ST worked in this row.
The Slip Stitch to the 3rd stitch will create a small flap on the back of the dress. From now on we will be working in joined rounds. You will end each round in the part 3 with a slip stitch to the first stitch of that round.
Part 3: Tulip Crochet Dress Skirt
Round 1: CH2, Turn, *DC into next 11(11, 12, 12, 13, 13) STs, Work 2 DC into next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. SLST to first DC of row. (78, 78, 84, 84, 90, 90)
Round 2: CH2, Turn, *DC into next 12(12, 13, 13, 14, 14) STs, Work 2 DC into next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. SLST to first DC of row. (84, 84, 90, 90, 96, 96)
Round 3: CH2, Turn, *DC into next 13(13, 14, 14, 15, 15) STs, Work 2 DC into next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. SLST to first DC of row. (90, 90, 96, 96, 102, 102)
Round 4: CH2, Turn, *DC into next 14(14, 15, 15, 16, 16) STs, Work 2 DC into next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. SLST to first DC of row. (96, 96, 102, 102, 108, 108)
Round 5: CH2, Turn, *DC into next 15(15, 16, 16, 17, 17) STs, Work 2 DC into next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. SLST to first DC of row. (102, 102, 108, 108, 114, 114)
Round 6: CH2, Turn, *DC into next 16(16, 17, 17, 18, 18) STs, Work 2 DC into next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. SLST to first DC of row. (108, 108, 114, 114, 120, 120)
Round 7: CH2, Turn, *DC into next 17(17, 18, 18, 19, 19) STs, Work 2 DC into next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. SLST to first DC of row. (114, 114, 120, 120, 126, 126)
Round 8: CH2, Turn, *DC into next 18(18, 19, 19, 20, 20) STs, Work 2 DC into next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. SLST to first DC of row. (120, 120, 126, 126, 132, 132)
Round 9: CH2, Turn, *DC into next 19(19, 20, 20, 21, 21) STs, Work 2 DC into next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. SLST to first DC of row. (126, 126, 132, 132, 138, 138)
Round 10: CH2, Turn, *DC into next 20(20, 21, 21, 22, 22) STs, Work 2 DC into next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. SLST to first DC of row. (132, 132, 138, 138, 144, 144)
Round 11: CH2, Turn, *DC into next 21(21, 22, 22, 23, 23) STs, Work 2 DC into next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. SLST to first DC of row. (138, 138, 144, 144, 150, 150)
Round 12: CH2, Turn, *DC into next 22(22, 23, 23, 24, 24) STs, Work 2 DC into next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. SLST to first DC of row. (144, 144, 150, 150, 156, 156)
Round 13: CH2, Turn, *DC into next 23(23, 24, 24, 25, 25) STs, Work 2 DC into next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. SLST to first DC of row. (150, 150, 156, 156, 162, 162)
Round 14: CH2, Turn, *DC into next 24(24, 25, 25, 26, 26) STs, Work 2 DC into next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. SLST to first DC of row. (156, 156, 162, 162, 168, 168)
Round 15: CH2, Turn, *DC into next 25(25, 26, 26, 27, 27) STs, Work 2 DC into next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. SLST to first DC of row. (162, 162, 168, 168, 174, 174)
Round 16: CH2, Turn, *DC into next 26(26, 27, 27, 28, 28) STs, Work 2 DC into next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. SLST to first DC of row. (168, 168, 174, 174, 180, 180)
Round 17: CH2, Turn, *DC into next 27(27, 28, 28, 29, 29) STs, Work 2 DC into next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. SLST to first DC of row. (174, 174, 180, 180, 186, 186)
Round 18: CH2, Turn, *DC into next 28(28, 29, 29, 30, 30) STs, Work 2 DC into next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. SLST to first DC of row. (180, 180, 186, 186, 192, 192)
Round 18 is the last row for Size 12 months. Fasten off and Weave in your ends if making this size.
Round 19: CH2, Turn, *DC into next –(29, 30, 30, 31, 31) STs, Work 2 DC into next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. SLST to first DC of row. (–, 186, 192, 192, 198, 198)
Round 20: CH2, Turn, *DC into next –(30, 31, 31, 32, 32) STs, Work 2 DC into next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. SLST to first DC of row. (–, 192, 198, 198, 204, 204)
Round 20 is the last row for Size 18 months. Fasten off and Weave in your ends if making this size.
Round 21: CH2, Turn, *DC into next –(–, 32, 32, 33, 33) STs, Work 2 DC into next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. SLST to first DC of row. (–, –, 204, 204, 210, 210)
Round 22: CH2, Turn, *DC into next –(–, 33, 33, 34, 34) STs, Work 2 DC into next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. SLST to first DC of row. (–, –, 210, 210, 216, 216)
Round 23: CH2, Turn, *DC into next –(–, 34, 34, 35, 35) STs, Work 2 DC into next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. SLST to first DC of row. (–, –, 216, 216, 222, 222)
Round 23 is the last row of Size 2. Fasten off and Weave in your ends if making this size.
Round 24: CH2, Turn, *DC into next –(–, –, 35, 36, 36) STs, Work 2 DC into next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. SLST to first DC of row. (–, –, –, 222, 228, 228)
Round 25: CH2, Turn, *DC into next –(–, –, 36, 37, 37) STs, Work 2 DC into next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. SLST to first DC of row. (–, –, –, 228, 234, 234)
Round 25 is the last row of Size 4. Fasten off and Weave in your ends if making this size.
Round 26: CH2, Turn, *DC into next –(–, –, –, 38, 38) STs, Work 2 DC into next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. SLST to first DC of row. (–, –, –, –, 240, 240)
Round 27: CH2, Turn, *DC into next –(–, –, –, 39, 39) STs, Work 2 DC into next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. SLST to first DC of row. (–, –, –, –, 246, 246)
Round 27 is the last row of Size 6. Fasten off and Weave in your ends if making this size.
Round 28: CH2, Turn, *DC into next 40 STs, Work 2 DC into next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. SLST to first DC of row. (252)
Round 29: CH2, Turn, *DC into next 41 STs, Work 2 DC into next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. SLST to first DC of row. (258)
Round 30: CH2, Turn, *DC into next 42 STs, Work 2 DC into next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. SLST to first DC of row. (264)
Round 31: CH2, Turn, *DC into next 43 STs, Work 2 DC into next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. SLST to first DC of row. (272)
Fasten off and weave in your ends.
Shoulder Straps (Make 2)
CH 36(39, 41, 46, 50, 59) With Purple (Pale Periwinkle)
Row 1: DC in the 3rd CH from the hook. DC in the next 33(36, 38, 43, 47, 56) CH.
Fasten off leaving a long end to sew one end of the strap to the front of the dress.
Sew one side of the strap to the top of the bodice right at each corner. The other side of the strap will be buttoned to the back of the dress.
Adding your Buttons
For Sizes 18 months, size 4 and size 8 you will add a single button right at the edge of Bodice Row 2. You will want the button facing the outside of the dress. You will simply push the button between two stitches instead of a specific buttonhole. This makes the dress or tops very adjustable.
For Sizes 12 months, size 2, and size 6. You will place a button in the same location as the sizes but also place a button about 1-1.5 inches further into the dress. This will allow for a smaller waist size.
To determine where to put the strap buttons, lay the dress flat and lay the straps straight down from where they have been sewn on. Sew a button at the location where the strap touches the back of the dress. The button will be sewn to the inside of the dress.
Crop Top Instructions
To create a crop top simply work the bodice and waistband rows. Do not join the rows at the end of waistband row 5. Fasten off and weave in your ends. Add your buttons the same way you would for the dress.
You can add fringe to the crop top or leave it plain.
Crochet Top Instructions
To create a longer crochet top shown in the photos, simply work the bodice rows. Work the waistband rows 1 and 2. Then work the repeat row below the number of times listed for the size you are making.
Repeat Row: CH2, turn, DC in the next 74(74, 80, 80, 86, 86) STs.
Size 12 months – Repeat the Row a total of 10 times or until you have a total of 20 rows.
Size 18 months – Repeat the Row a total of 10 times or until you have a total of 21 rows.
Size 2 –Repeat the Row a total of 10 times or until you have a total of 22 rows.
Size 4 – Repeat the Row a total of 10 times or until you have a total of 25 rows.
Size 6 – Repeat the Row a total of 11 times or until you have a total of 28 rows.
Size 8 – Repeat the Row a total of 16 times or until you have a total of 37 rows.
Fasten off and weave in your ends. Crochet and add the straps to the top and sew on the buttons.
I left the back of the top open, but you can also choose to join the repeat row above with a slip stitch.
I really hope you enjoyed the tulip crochet dress pattern and feel free to contact me with any questions.
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Oh My Goodness!!!!
Your model is so darn cute xxxx
Thank you. I just love photographing her. She is getting so big so fast. IF you look through my patterns you can see her grow up. She modeled one of my first patterns around 3 months old.
This is so cute and I’m working on it right now. I hope it’s okay with you, but I’m going to try to make this without fastening off at the end of the bodice and just working in the round from there. What do you think?
That should be just fine. Maybe after making the bodice you might see if the child can slip the piece over there head. If they can then it ill work fine.
Hi! I’ve finished the bodice and am a pretty beginner crocheter. Could you tell me what you mean by slip stitching to the 3rd stitch worked in the row? Thanks!
So far we have been working in rows, now we are going to be working in joined rounds, but instead of joining with a slip stitch into the very first stitch, we are going to create a button flap. To do this you will slip stitch to the third stitch (instead of the first stitch) worked in the row. This creates a little button flap. From now on, you will join your rows with a slip stitch at the end of each row.
Hi Lindsey,
So after that stitch where we create the loop it says to CH2 and turn…does that mean we work back on the row we just did? Or CH 2 and continue since we’ve already turned the work to create the loop?
Thanks!
I am not sure what you mean by the loop. My best thought is you are referring to row 5 in part 2. For this one we slipstitch to the 3rd ST of the row (back at the beginning of the row) this will create a little flap at the top of the dress for our buttons to be attached to.
Hello I’m kinda stuck where it says slip stich into the 3rd stitch. I’m not sure which 3rd stitch you are referring to.
You are slip stitching to the third stitch worked in this row. From now on we are working in joined rounds. So to create that joined round and to make a small button flap, you will slip stitch to the third DC worked in this row (this is at the beginning of the row). This will create the joined round and from now on our we will be working on the skirt and working in joined rounds.
I’m not new to crochet and this didn’t make sense to me either, I think I did it wrong aswell… I did notice a few mistakes written in this pattern, I’m working on the skirt portion now, hoping it goes smoothly
If you have any specific questions are you welcome to ask. I answered Shundrea’s questions in the comments. If I see any errors in the pattern, I take the time to correct them.
Hello! I’m in the process of making this dress and so far so good. I’m an experienced knitter but this is my first crochet dress. I’m stuck on starting the skirt and understanding what you mean by SLST IN FIRST DC OF ROW and then we chain and turn…also, is this crocheting in the round as I don’t see anything in the notes about joining the seams.
I’m excited about finishing this so if anyone can reply to this I’d appreciate it!
Thanks!
Yes, at the end of row 5 of part 2, we will slipstitch to the 3rd stitch of row five (back at the beginning of the row.) From now on we will work in joined rows. (You will see each row ends with SLST to 1st DC of row). I turned at the beginning of each row but once you reach the skirt part, turning is not necessary.
I do not understand the waistband instructions. Please clarify.
I recommend looking closely at the instructional photo. First Make sure you fastened off at the end of part 1. Then to extend the waistband you will make a new chain, then start working Wasit band Row 1 into the last row of part 1. Then end that row working another chain. There is a photo showing these chains. If you need further clarification I recommend checking out the puff stitch dress video tutorial as the waistband is made the exact same way. https://youtu.be/OubvFTU9oMM Start watching the video 7:35 and row 8 in the puff stitch dress is the same idea as the tulip dress waistband row 1.
I’m so confused with trying to do the green part on the tulip piece. Any videos that can help me or anything?
I do not have a video tutorial for this stitch.
I will rewrite the row here to see if this helps.
Notes: You are working a double crochet decrease and working into the chain 1 spaces on each side of a cluster stitch.
Row 4: CH2, Turn, DC into 1st ST, Working into the next 2 CH1 spaces, DC2TOG, CH1, *Working into the previous CH1 space and the next CH1 space, DC2TOG, CH1* repeat across until you only have 1 ST left. DC in the last ST. (74, 74, 80, 80, 86, 86)(This count includes your stithes and CH1 spaces.)
I think some of the confusion over this section is that the original instructions for the special stitches are “one loop off”:
Cluster Stitch – CL – *YO, insert hook into next ST and pull up a loop, YO, pull the first loop through the second and third loop on the hook* repeat from *to* a total of 3 times. YO, pull the first loop through all 3 loops on the hook. (Video Tutorial)
I ended up with 4 loops on the hook and pulled through them all.
Double Crochet 2 Stitches Together – DC2TOG – *YO, insert hook into next ST and pull up a loop, YO, pull the first loop through the second and third loop on the hook* repeat from *to* a total of 2 times. YO, pull the first loop through all 2 loops on the hook.
Here I ended up with 3 loops on the hook.
Am I doing the stitches incorrectly? I have done cluster and dc2tog in other projects and just want to make sure I am not missing something for this dress. It’s so stinking cute!
You are doing the stitches correctly. I have adjusted the instructions.
Hi my name is Ann Craig I bought the pattern for the tulip dress I am at changing yarn to green I not understand ing how you did this row. Can you please explain, or have a video of this part. Thank you in advance.
I do not have a video of this pattern. I would make sure you look at the instructional photos. There is one photo that shows the green row and will help with understanding the stitch placement. You can compare what you are doing to the photo to see if it looks the same.
This little dress is SO cute! Can you please tell me how many total dc there will be after completing row 2 of the waistband for the 12 month size?
Thank you
Cyndi Campbell
Looks like there should be 75 DC.
Is there anyway I can send you a picture so you can tell me if I’m doing this right? I am so confused I’ve pulled this apart more than four times lol!
You can send a picture to Windingroadcrochet@gmail.com
Thank you ! I have sent you the picture
I will go look at it.
I did😀!
Than you
This little dress was soooo cute! Love the way it came out and I made a sunhat to go with it. Used pink Premier Bamboo Joy, purple and green cotton for the flowers.
lovely
Why are there hyphens ( – ) instead of st, when it says ‘dc into the next -‘
Sizes are written in parenthesis like so: 12m (18m, 2, 4, 6, 8).
So when there is a (-) instead of a stitch count, that means that the size that should be in that spot does not use that row.
For example, there is this note after round 18.
Round 18 is the last row for Size 12 months. Fasten off and Weave in your ends if making this size.
Round 19: CH2, Turn, *DC into next –(29, 30, 30, 31, 31) STs, Work 2 DC into next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. SLST to first DC of row. (–, 186, 192, 192, 198, 198)
So for Round 19 the spot where the 12 month stitch number would be is now indicated with a –. It is just a holding place so that all the other stitch numbers are still in the same place that was indicated in the notes at the beginning of the pattern.
Hi do you fasten off the purple after round 2 to start the pink color? Also do you have the link to the video tutorial?
This pattern does not have a video tutorial. To fasten off I simple change colors on the last stitch of the row then fasten off the purple and weave in the ends.