Make this Easy Toddler Crochet Sweater and your little one will be the envy of the town.
Spring is on its way and it is the perfect time to dress our little ones up in this toddler crochet sweater. This toddler sweater has been turning heads with its cute little ruffles and beautiful colors.
Below you will find the complete pattern and instructional photos for this toddler crochet sweater tunic and dress variation. You will also find all the materials, stitches, gauge and sizing information. If you would like all of this in a nicely formatted printable format, you can purchase the Ad-Free Large Print PDF Pattern.
The Toddler Crochet Sweater
If you ever want to start crocheting garments. Toddler and baby garments are the way to start. I really wanted to create a series of easy crocheted garments and this is one of them. Another super easy garment is the Simple Spring Baby Dress.
Toddler and baby garments are not as intimidating as starting a sweater for yourself. If you make a mistake, it is easy to pull it out and you have less time loss. This toddler crochet sweater is made like a traditional sweater with a collar and yoke and then I added some extra pizazz with the ruffles.
I have to tell you this sweater is really a show stopper. Everyone just oohs and ahhs when my daughter wears it. The best part is that they can really tell that the sweater was handmade and they are just blown away.
How to Crochet a Toddler Sweater
This sweater is crocheted in a very traditional way. We will make a collar using single crochet in the back loops. Then we will create a yoke to create the sleeves.
I know creating a yoke sounds scary, but really it isn’t. All we have to is create four strategically placed increases. That is it. If you can crochet 3 stitches into one stitch from the previous row then you can make a yoke.
I really think the ruffles just make this sweater. I kept the ruffles very simple. First, we work a row of back post double crochet. This will turn the top of the previous row of stitches forward so that it is easy for us to come back later and work into those stitches. The ruffles are created by one row of increase and the rest of the rows you will just crochet in each stitch around. Super easy!
Choosing the Perfect Sweater Yarn and Colors
For a fun springtime sweater, I need a lighter yarn. The Lion Brand Mandala is a perfect size 3 lightweight yarn and it has so many wonderful colorways. I just love how this yarn gradually fades from one color to the next.
For the crochet toddler sweater tunic pictured above, I used the color Centaur for the body and the colorway Warlock for the ruffles. For the crochet toddler sweater dress, I used 2 skeins in the colorway Sea Breeze in Lion Brands Cupcake yarn.
I was so in love with the first sweater I made that I needed to make a second one. Since this project only took a weekend to whip up, it is completely worth making more than one.
Keeping it Simple: Stitches Used in the Toddler Sweater
I really wanted to keep this sweater as simple as possible. To create this sweater you will need to be able to crochet into the back loops to create the collar. You will need to know how to increase with double crochet to create the yoke of the sweater (the sleeve are). Then to create a nice place to attach the ruffles we will work just two rows of Backpost Double Crochet. That is it! That is all you need to know to create a crochet toddler sweater.
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Below you will find the free pattern with all the instructional photos and videos needed to complete the pattern, but I am also aware that several of us like to crochet on the couch, in the car, or in bed with a printout of the pattern. This is why I also offer a nicely formatted ad-free large font PDF version of the pattern. You can print the pattern and take it on the go with you or tuck it into your project bag or basket.
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More Patterns you may Love
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Ruffle Toddler Crochet Sweater
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Materials Needed
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2 Skeins Lion Brand Mandala (2 Skeins for all sizes, but you will have a lot of leftover yarn from the second skein)
Crochet Hook Size G, 4mm
Yarn Needle
Scissors
Stitches and Abbreviations
CH – Chain
SC – Single Crochet
BLOSC – Back Loop Single Crochet
DC – Double Crochet
BPDC – Back Post Double Crochet
SLST – Slip Stitch
SKST – Skip Stitch
Gauge and Size
8DC x 5 Rows = 2 Inches
Special Stitches
BPDC – Back Post Double Crochet – Yarn Over, insert your hook from the back of your work around the post of the stitch and back to the back of your work. Yarn over and pull the loop back to the other side. You will have 3 loops on your hook, complete the rest of the stitch just like a double crochet.
I confess that it is easier to show you how to do this stitch instead of telling you. So here a great front post and back post video tutorial.
Toddler Sweater Video Tutorial
Toddler Crochet Sweater Pattern
Notes:
-Written in US terms.
– I do not count my turning chain a stitch.
-I have written this for the 12 Months size with 18m, 2T, and 4T in parenthesis. Also when additional rows need to be worked they will be specified in the notes.
-I have written this pattern in sections (Collar, Sleeves, Body and Ruffles) with the row count starting over at the beginning of each section.
– This pattern can be made as a tunic or dress. The only difference is the number of rows worked for the ruffles.
– 18-month size dress took 6.86 oz and 763 yds of yarn. 2T size tunic took 5.64 oz and 628 yds of yarn.
Part 1: Crocheting the Collar
CH6
Collar Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook, Sc in next 4 CH. (5 SC)
Collar Row 2-64: Ch1, turn, BLO SC in next 5 STs.
Notes:
Size 18m: Work Row 2 until you have 68 rows.
Size 2T: Work Row 2 until you have 72 rows.
Size 4T: Work Row 2 until you have 76 rows.
2nd to Last Collar Row: Take your collar and fold it in half so that the first and last row are laying on top of each other. Make sure you do not twist your collar. Work 5 SLST along these two rows working through both rows so they are connected.
Last Collar Row: Ch1, working down the side of your previous row, work a SC into the side of each row. (64SC, 68SC, 72SC, 76SC)
Your collar is complete continue to the sleeves section to learn how to make make the sweater yoke.
Part 2: Creating the Sleeves
Note:
-If this is a new technique for you, you will want to use 4 stitch markers to make this section easier. Use the stitch markers to mark the center of the 3DC increase. Then the next row work your increases into the stitch with the marker.
-We will be working the rest of the pattern in one direction.
– If only one number is given, then work that number of sts for all sizes.
Sleeves Row 1: CH2, DC into next 10(11, 12, 13) STs, Work 3 DC into next ST, DC into next 10 STs, Work 3 DC into the next ST, DC into next 20(22, 24, 26) STs, Work 3 DC into next ST, DC into next 10 STs, Work 3 DC into next ST, DC into last 10(11, 12, 13) STs. SLST to first DC. (72DC, 76DC, 80DC, 84DC)
Sleeves Row 2: CH2, DC into next 11(12, 13, 14) STs, Work 3 DC into next ST, DC into next 12 STs, Work 3 DC into the next ST, DC into next 22(24, 26, 28) STs, Work 3 DC into next ST, DC into next 12 STs, Work 3 DC into next ST, DC into last 11(12, 13, 14) STs. SLST to first DC. (80DC, 84DC, 88DC, 92DC)
Sleeves Row 3: CH2, DC into next 12(13, 14, 15) STs, Work 3 DC into next ST, DC into next 14 STs, Work 3 DC into the next ST, DC into next 24(26, 28, 30) STs, Work 3 DC into next ST, DC into next 14 STs, Work 3 DC into next ST, DC into last 12(13, 14, 15) STs. SLST to first DC. (88DC, 92DC, 96DC, 100DC)
Sleeves Row 4: CH2, DC into next 13(14, 15, 16) STs, Work 3 DC into next ST, DC into next 16 STs, Work 3 DC into the next ST, DC into next 26(28, 30, 32) STs, Work 3 DC into next ST, DC into next 16 STs, Work 3 DC into next ST, DC into last 13(14, 15, 16) STs. SLST to first DC. (96DC, 100DC, 104DC, 108DC)
Sleeves Row 5: CH2, DC into next 14(15, 16, 17) STs, Work 3 DC into next ST, DC into next 18 STs, Work 3 DC into the next ST, DC into next 28(30, 32, 34) STs, Work 3 DC into next ST, DC into next 18 STs, Work 3 DC into next ST, DC into last 14(15, 16, 17) STs. SLST to first DC. (104DC, 108DC, 112DC, 116DC)
Sleeves Row 6: CH2, DC into next 15(16, 17, 18) STs, Work 3 DC into next ST, DC into next 20 STs, Work 3 DC into the next ST, DC into next 30(32, 34, 36) STs, Work 3 DC into next ST, DC into next 20 STs, Work 3 DC into next ST, DC into last 15(16, 17, 18) STs. SLST to first DC. (112DC, 116DC, 120DC, 124DC)
Sleeves Row 7: CH2, DC into next 16(17, 18, 19) STs, Work 3 DC into next ST, DC into next 22 STs, Work 3 DC into the next ST, DC into next 32(34, 36, 38) STs, Work 3 DC into next ST, DC into next 22 STs, Work 3 DC into next ST, DC into last 16(17, 18, 19) STs. SLST to first DC. (120DC, 124DC, 128DC, 132DC)
Sleeves Row 8: CH2, DC into next 17(18, 19, 20) STs, Work 3 DC into next ST, DC into next 24 STs, Work 3 DC into the next ST, DC into next 34(36, 38, 40) STs, Work 3 DC into next ST, DC into next 24 STs, Work 3 DC into next ST, DC into last 17(18, 19, 20) STs. SLST to first DC. (128DC, 132DC, 136DC, 140DC)
Row 8 is the last Row for size 12.
Sleeves Row 9: CH2, DC into next –(19, 20, 21) STs, Work 3 DC into next ST, DC into next 26 STs, Work 3 DC into the next ST, DC into next –(38, 40, 42) STs, Work 3 DC into next ST, DC into next 26 STs, Work 3 DC into next ST, DC into last –(19, 20, 21) STs. SLST to first DC. (–DC, 140DC, 144DC, 148DC)
Row 9 is the last Row for size 18m and 2T.
Sleeves Row 10: CH2, DC into next 22 STs, Work 3 DC into next ST, DC into next 28 STs, Work 3 DC into the next ST, DC into next 44 STs, Work 3 DC into next ST, DC into next 28 STs, Work 3 DC into next ST, DC into last 22 STs. SLST to first DC. (156DC)
Part 3: Toddler Crochet Sweater Body
Note: For the first row you will fold your yoke in half so it almost resembles a half-circle. You want your seam to be in the center of your project. Row 1 will skip several stitches creating the armholes of the sweater.
Body Row 1: CH2, DC into next 19(21, 22, 24), Skip the next 26(28, 28, 30) STs, DC into next 38(42, 44, 48)STs, Skip the next 26(28, 28, 30) STs, DC into last 19(21, 22, 24)STs. SLST to first DC. (76DC, 84DC, 88DC, 96DC)
Body Row 2-9: CH2, DC into next 76(84, 88, 96)STs. SLST to first DC.
For Size 18m work Row 2 an additional 2 times.
For Size 2T work Row 2 an additional 4 times.
For Row 4T work Row 2 an additional 6 times.
Part 4: Crocheting the Ruffles
Notes: In this section, we will set up the foundation rows for our ruffles and then work the first ruffle (the lowest ruffle in the pictures). We will then come back and work the other two ruffles into the foundation rows created.
Ruffle Row 1: CH2, BPDC into next 76(84, 88, 96) STs. SLST to first DC.
Ruffle Row 2-5: CH2, DC into next 76(84, 88, 96) STs. SLST to first DC.
Ruffle Row 6: CH2, BPDC into next 76(84, 88, 96) STs. SLST to first DC.
Ruffle Row 7-10: CH2, DC into next 76(84, 88, 96) STs. SLST to first DC.
Ruffle Row 11: CH2, *Work 3DC into next ST, DC into next ST* repeat from *to* until the end of the row. SLST to first DC. (152DC, 168DC, 176DC, 192DC)
Ruffle Row 12-16: CH2, DC into next 152(168, 176, 192)STs. SLST to first DC. Fasten off and weave in your ends.
Each ruffle will be made from 5 rows, but you can work an additional 5 DC rows for each stitch to make the ruffle long enough to be a dress. Or add more rows to make it even longer.
Part 5: Adding more Ruffles to your Toddler Crochet Sweater
Now we will work the top two ruffles into the rows of BPDC. When we worked the BPDC we turned the top of the previous DC row forward. You will work Row 1 into these turned rows.
Additional Ruffles Row 1: SLST to top of one of the rows indicated above, CH2, *Work 3DC into next ST, DC into next ST* repeat from *to* until the end of the row. SLST to first DC. (152DC, 168DC, 176DC, 192DC)
Additional Ruffles Row 2-5: CH2, DC into next 152(168, 176, 192)STs. SLST to first DC. Fasten off and weave in your ends.
Now repeat Rows 1-5 for the other ruffle. Once both ruffles are complete, weave in your ends and your toddler crochet sweater is complete.
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Make this Easy Toddler Crochet Sweater and your little one will be the envy of the town.
