Crochet Patterns

Crochet Tote Square Bottom Bag Free Pattern

I just love crochet patterns that look more complex then they are. That is definitely the case with the square bottom crochet tote bag. This bag starts with a simple solid granny square then in just a few rows of decreases you have a bag that is perfect for on the go.

Below you will find the complete pattern and instructional photos for this crochet tote bag. You will also find all the materials, stitches, gauge, and sizing information. If you would like all of this in a nicely formatted printable format, you can purchase the Ad-Free Large Print PDF Pattern.

A Crochet Tote Bag and Lost Keys

Do you ever have to dump out your entire purse to find your keys? This crochet tote will never hide your keys from you. You just lay the bag on a flat surface and it opens up nice and wide. Shuffle things around just a bit and you will be able to find anything you are looking for.

This is because we start with a simple square base. Then we will gather the sides up just a little bit. This will leave us a nice big opening for searching for the items we need. My favorite way to use this bag is to lay it flat on my bed, toss in all the items I need for a weekend trip or overnight stay, and then grab it and go.

Lining your Crochet Tote Bag

I have found that the crochet bag I use the most are the ones that are lined. Lining this crochet tote is very easy. It is just like Lining a Crochet Blanket.

Before you work your gathering rows, you will line your square base with fabric. You can do this by hand or learn to line it with a sewing machine in this tutorial.

This crochet tote bag is perfect for on the go. The pattern is easy to follow. The bag has a nice big opening for easy key finding.

A Flexible Pattern for this Crochet Tote

I made my bag nice and big. My daughter has a matching bag about half the size. If you are willing to stray from the pattern you can easily make this bag any size.

What do I mean by this? The gathering rows require a stitch repeat, but it is not super important.

What is important is that you gather the sides evenly. So if you make a different size bag and work the gathering rows and end up with two extra stitches at the end, just work another decrease and move on. Do not let the stitch count bother you, the bag will still look great.

This crochet tote bag is perfect for on the go. The pattern is easy to follow. The bag has a nice big opening for easy key finding.

Stitches Used

I want to keep this bag as simple as it can be. To crochet this bag you will need to know how to double crochet, chain, slip stitch. You will either work a magic circle or work into a chained circle.

To gather your crochet tote bag you will need to be able to single crochet and single crochet two stitches together to make a decrease. That is all you need to know!

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This crochet tote bag is perfect for on the go. The pattern is easy to follow. The bag has a nice big opening for easy key finding.
Working on the Millie Bobble Blanket

The Premium Ad-Free PDF Pattern

Below you will find the free pattern with all the instructional photos and videos needed to complete the pattern, but I am also aware that several of us like to crochet on the couch, in the car, or in bed with a print out of the pattern. This is why I also offer a nicely formatted ad-free large font PDF version of the pattern. You can print the pattern and take it on the go with you or tuck it into your project bag or basket.

I moved all the photos to the end of the PDF so you can reference them as you needed them and print just the pattern without using up as much ink. The Premium PDF version of the pattern can be purchased on Etsy of Ravelry.

More Patterns you may Love

Don’t forget to check out all the free patterns at Winding Road Crochet. You may just find a new favorite project. Here are some great patterns you will love.

Square Bottom Crochet Tote Bag

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Materials Needed

This post may contain affiliate links. For more information refer to my Terms and Conditions. 
13.33 oz or 700 yds of Red Heart Super Saver I used the colors Flamingo, White, Gold, Dusty Grey, and Red Heart With Love Mallard
Size I, 5.5mm, Crochet Hook
Yarn Needle
Scissors
Fat Quarter of Fabric
Needle and Thread or Sewing Machine
**Shop my Favorite Tools Here**

Stitches and Abbreviations

CH – Chain
SC – Single Crochet
DC – Double Crochet
SC2TOG – Single Crochet 2 Stitches Together
ST(s) – Stitch(es)
SLST – Slip Stitch

Gauge and Size

Gauge 12 DC X 7 rows = 4 inches
Size: The final bag is with handles is 24 inches tall and 15 wide.

Helpful Video Tutorials

Here are some video tutorials that will help you with making this bag.
How to Change Colors
Easy way to make a Magic Circle

Special Stitches

SC2TOG – Single Crochet 2 Stitches Together – Insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over, pull the loop through the hook (2 loops on hook), insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over, pull the loop through the hook, (3 loops on the hook) yarn over and pull the first loop through all the loops on the hook. Your decrease is complete.

This crochet tote bag is perfect for on the go. The pattern is easy to follow. The bag has a nice big opening for easy key finding.

Square Bottom Crochet Tote Pattern

Notes:
-Written in US terms.
-Color Information: Rows 1-5 are Gold, Rows 6-11 are Mallard, Rows 12-15 are White, and Rows 16-24 are Flamingo. All other rows are Dusty Grey.
– I do not count my CH2, turning chain, as a stitch.

Row 1: CH2, Make a Magic Circle, Work 2 DC into the MC, CH2, *Work 4 DC into the MC. CH2* repeat from *to* a total of 3 times. Work 2 DC into the MC. SLST to first DC.
Alternate Row 1: CH3, SLST to first CH. CH2, Work 2 DC into the CH3 Circle, CH2, *Work 4 DC into the CH3 Circle. CH2* repeat from *to* a total of 3 times. Work 2 DC into the CH3 Circle. SLST to first DC.

Row 2: CH2, DC into first 2 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner. *DC in the next 4 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner.* repeat from *to* a total of 3 times. Dc in the last 2 STs. (8 DC on Each Side)

Row 3: CH2, DC into first 4 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner. *DC in the next 8 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner.* repeat from *to* a total of 3 times. Dc in the last 4 STs. (12 DC on Each Side)

Row 4: CH2, DC into first 6 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner. *DC in the next 12 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner.* repeat from *to* a total of 3 times. Dc in the last 6 STs. (16 DC on Each Side)

Row 5: CH2, DC into first 8 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner. *DC in the next 16 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner.* repeat from *to* a total of 3 times. Dc in the last 8 STs. (20 DC on Each Side)

Change to Mallard Blue Yarn.

Row 6: CH2, DC into first 10 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner. *DC in the next 20 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner.* repeat from *to* a total of 3 times. Dc in the last 10 STs. (24 DC on Each Side)

Row 7: CH2, DC into first 12 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner. *DC in the next 24 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner.* repeat from *to* a total of 3 times. Dc in the last 12 STs. (28 DC on Each Side)

Row 8: CH2, DC into first 14 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner. *DC in the next 28 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner.* repeat from *to* a total of 3 times. Dc in the last 14 STs. (32 DC on Each Side)

Row 9: CH2, DC into first 16 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner. *DC in the next 32 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner.* repeat from *to* a total of 3 times. Dc in the last 16 STs. (36 DC on Each Side)

Row 10: CH2, DC into first 18 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner. *DC in the next 36 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner.* repeat from *to* a total of 3 times. Dc in the last 18 STs. (40 DC on Each Side)

Row 11: CH2, DC into first 20 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner. *DC in the next 40 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner.* repeat from *to* a total of 3 times. Dc in the last 20 STs. (44 DC on Each Side)

Change to White Yarn.

Row 12: CH2, DC into first 22 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner. *DC in the next 44 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner.* repeat from *to* a total of 3 times. Dc in the last 22 STs. (48 DC on Each Side)

Row 13: CH2, DC into first 24 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner. *DC in the next 48 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner.* repeat from *to* a total of 3 times. Dc in the last 24 STs. (52 DC on Each Side)

Row 14: CH2, DC into first 26 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner. *DC in the next 52 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner.* repeat from *to* a total of 3 times. Dc in the last 26 STs. (56 DC on Each Side)

Row 15: CH2, DC into first 28 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner. *DC in the next 56 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner.* repeat from *to* a total of 3 times. Dc in the last 28 STs. (60 DC on Each Side)

Change to Flamingo Pink.

Row 16: CH2, DC into first 30 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner. *DC in the next 60 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner.* repeat from *to* a total of 3 times. Dc in the last 30 STs. (64 DC on Each Side)

Row 17: CH2, DC into first 32 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner. *DC in the next 64 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner.* repeat from *to* a total of 3 times. Dc in the last 32 STs. (68 DC on Each Side)

Row 18: CH2, DC into first 34 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner. *DC in the next 68 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner.* repeat from *to* a total of 3 times. Dc in the last 34 STs. (72 DC on Each Side)

Row 19: CH2, DC into first 36 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner. *DC in the next 72 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner.* repeat from *to* a total of 3 times. Dc in the last 36 STs. (76 DC on Each Side)

Row 20: CH2, DC into first 38 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner. *DC in the next 76 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner.* repeat from *to* a total of 3 times. Dc in the last 38 STs. (80 DC on Each Side)

Row 21: CH2, DC into first 40 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner. *DC in the next 80 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner.* repeat from *to* a total of 3 times. Dc in the last 40 STs. (84 DC on Each Side)

Row 22: CH2, DC into first 42 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner. *DC in the next 84 STs, (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the CH2 corner.* repeat from *to* a total of 3 times. Dc in the last 42 STs. (88 DC on Each Side)

Row 23: CH1, SC into first 44 STs, (SC, CH2, SC) in the CH2 corner. *SC in the next 88 STs, (SC, CH2, SC) in the CH2 corner.* repeat from *to* a total of 3 times. SC in the last 44 STs. (90 SC on Each Side)

Row 24: CH1, SC into first 45 STs, (SC, CH2, SC) in the CH2 corner. *SC in the next 90 STs, (SC, CH2, SC) in the CH2 corner.* repeat from *to* a total of 3 times. SC in the last 45 STs. (92 SC on Each Side)

Fasten off and weave in your ends.

Lining Your Bag

If you want to line your bag this is the time to do it. I like to line my bag by sewing the line to row 23. This leave row 24 open to continue crocheting onto. Since the bag base is just a square you can line it exactly like you line a blanket. Check out this tutorial to learn to line a blanket or follow the abbreviated directions below.

Step 1: Cut a piece of fabric out that is 1 inch longer and 1 inch wider than your bag base.

This crochet tote bag is perfect for on the go. The pattern is easy to follow. The bag has a nice big opening for easy key finding.

Step 2: Fold the edges of the fabric back 1/2 an inch and iron it in place.

This crochet tote bag is perfect for on the go. The pattern is easy to follow. The bag has a nice big opening for easy key finding.

Step 3: Pin your liner to row 23 making sure the raw edge is facing the crocheted base. Sew the liner in place. You can either sew by hand or with a sewing machine.

This crochet tote bag is perfect for on the go. The pattern is easy to follow. The bag has a nice big opening for easy key finding.

Gathering up Two Sides of your Crochet Tote

Now it is time to turn this square into a bag. First, we will work 2 gathering rows along the top and bottom side of the square. Then a plain row to finish the edge. Repeat these rows on two opposite sides of the square.

Gather Row 1: SLST to a CH2 corner, CH1, Working into the CH2 corner and the first ST SC2TOG, *Working into the next 2 STs SC2TOG* repeat from *to* a total of 45 times. Working into the last ST and the CH2 corner SC2TOG. (47 SC2TOG)

Gather Row 2: CH1, turn, Working into the first 2 STs SC2TOG, *Sc in next 3 STs, SC2TOG* repeat from *to* a total of 9 times. ( 37 STs)

Gather Row 3-4: CH1, turn, SC in next 37 STs.

Fasten off and weave in your ends.

Repeat Gather Rows 1-4 for the side parallel to the side you just worked. Do not fasten off at the end of your second set of gathering rows.

Gathering the last Sides and Adding Handles

Now we are going to gather up the other side of the bag and make the handles at the same time. We will be working into the sides of Gather Rows 1-4. Row 1 of this part is a bit complex, so I have broken it into several parts, One part is for each side of the square.

From where we left off.

Gather/Handle Row 1: CH1, turn so we are working down the sides of gather rows 1-4. Working into the side of the Rows SC2TOG, Working into the side of the next two rows SC2TOG, Working into CH2 corner and next ST SC2TOG, *Working into next 2 STs SC2TOG* repeat from *to* a total of 45 times. Working into the next ST and CH2 corner SC2TOG, Working into the side of the Rows SC2TOG, Working into the side of the next two rows SC2TOG, Working into CH2 corner and next ST SC2TOG. (51 SC2TOG on this side)

NOTE: Yes, this row seems a bit complex. What we are actually doing is just SC2TOG across the entire row. We just want to make sure we are working into the sides of the rows and the CH2 corners so that out stitch count remains correct.

Then we Chain to create handle and then repeat our decreases. Then chain again for the second handle and join to the beginning of the row.

Row 1 Continued (Part 2): CH60 (to create our first handle) Skip the entire next side of the square and beginning working into the side of Gather Rows 1-4 of the other side.

Row 1 Continued (Part 3): Working into the side of the Rows SC2TOG, Working into the side of the next two rows SC2TOG, Working into CH2 corner and next ST SC2TOG, *Working into next 2 STs SC2TOG* repeat from *to* a total of 45 times. Working into the next ST and CH2 corner SC2TOG, Working into the side of the Rows SC2TOG, Working into the side of the next two rows SC2TOG, Working into CH2 corner and next ST SC2TOG. (51 SC2TOG on this side)

Row 1 Continued (Part 4): CH60, Skip the entire next side of the square and SLST to the first ST of this row.

Be careful not to twist your chain when you are creating your handle.

Gather/Handle Row 2: CH1, Working in the first 2 STs SC2TOG, *SC in the next 2 STs, Working into next 2 STs SC2TOG* repeat from *to* a total of 12 times. SC in the next 61 CH. Working into next 2 STs SC2TOG, *SC in the next 2 STs, Working into next 2 STs SC2TOG* repeat from *to* a total of 12 times. SC in the next 61 CH. SLST to the first ST of the row. (196 STs)

Gather/Handle Row 3-6: CH1, SC into next 196 STs.

Fasten off after Row 6 or continue making a few more rows if you want a thicker handle. Weave in your ends and your bag is done.

If you find your stitch count is wrong on Gather/Handle Row 2, do not stress about it. Just work an extra SC2TOG or SC to be able to continue with the row. With all the decreases it is easy to mess up the stitch count. If you are a stitch or two off, you will never notice once the bag is complete.

If you have any questions at all, feel free to ask them in the comments below. A video tutorial is coming very soon.

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